Some Things About Mary

Like a Rainbow in the Dark

Perhaps Morgan Spurlock wouldn't be so panties-in-waddish had he chosen a better way to spend 30 days. I couldn't eat McD's even twice in a row, though to be fair, McD's did once hospitalize me. Maybe I'm biased. I'm definitely biased when it comes to my tacos, for I think there is little in life more consistently gratifying than squeezing a lime over those corn-rolled cuties and chowing with reckless abandon.

Mary's Restaurant is the newest jernt I've seen open for business within my daily traffic circle. I didn't make a trip across town to dine with Mary, but it's not like her place was simply the closest option either. Mary, for all practical purposes, legitimizes the need for a taco blog. Told you, it rains tacos in DFW. Someone has to give the weather report. I was nearby and hungry, and the blog begged for a quickie.

Mary knows you don't need a two-and-a-half acre plot with snazzy landscaping to sling tacos and beans. There are so many tiny, unassuming taquerias wedged into strip mall real estate that'll blow your freaking head off, that Mary's brightly colored, spacious slice of Garland strip mall splendor could almost pass as highfalutin. There are probably 15 to 20 tables inside, an air hockey table, and lots of games for the tots. Upon my inspection, the Grand Opening balloons were still taped to the wall, and the stack of menus appeared to be completely free of any salsa spills (ahem, too many taquerias, wipe your menus, thank you). I correctly assumed that I was about to catch Mary at her best behavior. 

The protons, the electrons, and the Nucleus.

Had a Tex-Mex style plate of beef tacos (combo. beans, rice, and condiment set-up). The tacos themselves were overall more Mex than Tex (corn v. flour, cilanto v. iceberg, 86 the queso), but for the record, I kind of feel like if it's Mex-inspired and Texas made, it's Tex-Mex. Much has been written about the authenticity of this cuisine when served on US soil, and I figure a good ten percent of it might even be true. I'm not really suggesting you go to Chi Chi's and order a cream cheese chimichanga should you wish to feel saucy, but let it be known that most cultural elitists who spend their time flaming other cultural elitists online are highly suspect of being misinformed douche tools, anyway. You know who you are. 

I digress...Mary's aight. Her corn tortillas were flavorful, supple, and commendable. Her beef was never frozen, and it chewed more like butter than squid. The beans were tasty (bless you, lard), but the rice was a bit "eh". If you enjoy dry rice, you might disagree with me. The hot sauce also left something to be desired--like, say, heat. It was unremarkable. In fact, the entire meal might have stayed comfortably in the "C" average zone were it not for the sheer surprise pleasure of stumbling upon the other wonderful condiments Mary served. Her guacamole was shut-my-mouth fine, zingy, zangy, creamy, and awesome. Likewise, the pico de gallo--a relish whose reputation is too often tainted by averagedom--was WTF yum. Upon closer inspection, I noted it contained a high jalapeno count, and the lime juice holding it all together seemed  fresh-squeezed from tree without the need for fruit removal.

I'd like to try more of Mary's cooking before officially grading her or anything quite that drastic. Based on my first visit, I can't recommend driving 20 miles to get here, but I'd certainly offer my nod if you're already in the area. It's a whatcha-see-is-whatcha get affair, an homage to the Tex-Mex of perhaps even better days (before it left Tex). The food's fresh, reasonably priced (my dinner was about eight bucks), and waiting for frijole fans to give them a shot.

Initial text. Photos and location detail to come.